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at least the outfits don’t | season 1, episode 1

Welcome to The One With The Fashion, a newsletter exploring the fashion + culture of Friends, episode by episode. I would love it if you subscribed! Thank you for reading & supporting this project <3

According to costume designer Debra McGuire, every episode of Friends included a wardrobe joke. The quip of the pilot episode comes in the form of Rachel Green’s wedding dress. This is how we are introduced to the character- a flurry of tulle and jewels (and I hate to say it, terrible veil) bursting out of place into the coffee house.

“So you wanna tell us now, or are we waiting for four wet bridesmaids?” Monica asks so we don’t have to.

Spoiler: There were no bridesmaids.

Pilot episodes are unique in the sense that in addition to introducing the story, they also have the chance to give the audience a peek into who the characters are through their style, and for the most part I think Friends does this well. McGuire had her work cut out for her from the beginning with the challenge of making sure the ensemble cast looked cohesive while developing an aspirational kind of aesthetic. Marta Kaufmann originally wanted them in usual hanging-out-in-New-York wear, like jeans, but McGuire had different ideas.

“Just kind of like visual candy. Something that people would want to be a part of,”¹ she says. So the whole “they couldn’t actually afford their lifestyle on their salaries” argument? That was intentional. Who cares if they’re only 26 (the further from 26 I get the more of a gut punch this reminder is) with mostly entry level jobs!! They’re who I want to be.

Let’s break down the style:

Rachel

Her Big One of the episode was definitely the aforementioned wedding dress (which was sourced from Warner Bros. costume department stock!) but it’s obvious she was a fashionista from the start. (aside from that veil. I’m sorry, I can’t let it go) We see her in quintessential ‘90s denim and earthier tones. Even the pink denim shirt is more muted. The juxtaposition of this palette and her wedding dress is something to note as her going from an almost-bride to a runaway one who has to find a job.

Monica

The more casual one of the bunch (but not too casual) in whites, yellows, and neutrals. The suspender look is one of my least favorites and honestly I feel like she wouldn’t wear them, but I digress. What does feel more like her is the slip dress/ tee/ sweater around the waist combo.

Phoebe

One of the most successful introductions; not only is Phoebe’s first line so very classically Phoebe: “Does he eat chalk? Just ‘cause I don’t want her to go through what I went through with Carl,” the first outfit we see her in is another Phoebe classic. Pigtails, bold chandelier earrings, and a denim vest encapsulates her personality just as well as any quirky one-liner.

Ross

We see him in different variations of the same outfit all episode but listen. He’s post-divorce. He’s sad. Let’s cut him some slack, okay? Maybe he WANTS to wear shabby layers with khaki pants. Maybe it’s a metaphor.

Joey

Joey’s leather jacket is actually a beat up Armani that McGuire hoped wouldn’t be noticeable as Armani. Sure we were going for aspirational, but an unemployed actor in designer? As if. Luckily, it managed to come across as a regular old leather jacket. His black & white palette introduces us a to a Joey in a which “how you doin” makes perfect sense. (also can we take a moment for the shaggy hair)

Chandler

Balancing out Ross & Joey, early season Chandler looks were very vintage, 1940s inspired suits and racing stripe shirts. (many of which were handmade) Though he’s in a suit at one point (which actually is on point for his job) we’re also introduced to the sarcastic, backwards baseball cap side of him- his best side.

While not every look can be a hit, they all did their job of creating cohesiveness between the characters and giving us a hint of their personalities.

*Okay to end each newsletter, I thought it’d be fun to share my favorite quote(s) of the episode! So here goes:

ROSS: I honestly don't know if I'm hungry or horny.
CHANDLER: Stay out of my freezer!

Anyway, thanks for reading the first official TOWTF newsletter, love ya! Would love to know which outfit is your favorite and if you also hate the veil.

xoxo, Kaeleen

Sources: ²

1. https://ew.com/tv/2019/09/15/friends-style-costume-designer-interview/

2. https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/friends-outfits-debra-mcguire-interview/

https://www.racked.com/2017/6/7/15742358/friends-tv-show-weddings

https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/fashion-news/a29030577/friends-costume-designer-debra-mcguire/